snack

liquidsnack: a glass of la caravelle

Do you miss La Caravelle? The grande dame of French dining reigned on 55th Street from 1960 to 2004. Today, only the house Champagne remains. Perhaps you've seen it on wine lists around town? To celebrate the 10th Anniversary of the production of this Premier Cru (which began in 1997), La Carvelle owner Rita Jammet is hosting an informal tasting of the bubbles at Morrell Wine on Friday from 3:30pm to 6:00pm. A good excuse to start the weekend early.

liquidsnack: delamain's $6,500 voyage

I had a seven-cognac dinner. It was reminiscent of my 11-Champagne lunch. The event was hosted by Delamain, the venerable French cognac house, to promote the arrival of Le Voyage: very old eau-de-vie cognac in a crystal Baccarat decanter, housed in a custom-made leather valise. Only 500 were made and the price tag is $6,500. Every now and again a cognac house will create something rare and expensive to pop the brand into view. It is the spirits equivalent of Louis Vuitton's Murakami handbags. I delayed posting until it became available in the US (seems the import paperwork took a while). It is currently on the shelves at Zachys in NY and SF.

The dinner was quite interesting and educational, in as much as a meal fueled by so much alcohol can be. I learned that...

1. All cognac producers buy from the same negociants and growers, meaning everyone is working with the same base ingredients. The differences come in the aging.
2. Unlike wine, you never judge cognac by the color nor do you swirl before drinking. If you see someone doing either with great flourish they are not an expert but a poser.
3. Side-by-side tasting is always revelatory.
4. I do like cognac after all. 

liquidsnack: hangover preemptive strike

The holiday party season is officially on. For most that means more food, more libations, and more regret the morning after. I was out recently with a friend, when a little after-work drink turned into a tasting menu with wine pairings, then last call at 1AM. She was bemoaning the difficulties she'd have the next day on her early conference call. She wondered how I manage to go out eating and drinking almost every night of the week sans hangover? I explained my simple protocol perfected on the party circuit.

Campari and soda is my last call beverage. Regardless of what alcoholic combinations you've had throughout the evening, the bitters, herbs and bubbles will settle the stomach. Have an alka-seltzer and big glass of water before you go to sleep, they will help your body hydrate and repair during the night. The next morning (or afternoon as the case may be) coffee, more water and one of those Emergen-C vitamin C fizzy drink packets. A solid breakfast/lunch of carbs and protein, like a burger or pasta, replenishes the gas tank. Lastly, make a trip to the gym. It may seem counter-intuitive to exercise when you're exhausted, but it does help to reeve the engine and sweat out the sins of the previous evening. By the time you're done, you should be fresh as a daisy, and ready for another night out.

liquidsnack: meet the heidsiecks, piper and charles

I had an 11-Champagne lunch recently. I was not being indulgent, but doing work at a press luncheon for Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck. I love the bubbly wine,  but it was interesting to be able to have several at a time to really compare and contrast. To divine which ones are truly the favorites.

Back in the day of Louis and Marie Antoinette there was one Heidsieck, Florens-Louis. When he passed in 1828 two cousins, Charles Heidsieck and Henri Guillaume Piper, each decided to take over the internationally renowned brand and thus the two houses were born. In the 1980's the two were reunited in the Remy Cointreau stable of wine and spirits.

Charles is described as "generous and voluptuous" and Piper as "radiant and crisp." Piper is also the fashonista in the family, starting trends like the mini-champagne bottles for models and designer bottles by Van Clef and Arpel and the like.

This summer Piper's introducing La Piscine, French for swimming pool. So the story goes, at the original Nikki Beach in St. Tropez (there are outposts in South Beach, Cabo, Marrakesh, you know places where it's chaud.) they drink beaucoup Champagne. But it's hot down there, even in the wee hours. So how to keep the bubbles chill? Make Champagne ice cubes to keep you glass cold, and as they melt they will not dilute the wine.

The vino purists may be wincing at the decidedly non-flute style of the glass, but not to worry. Champagne flutes were brought into vogue by caterers, wanting to pre-pour champagne and keep it bubbly for a long time. Fact: they use white burgundy glasses to taste the Champagne at the Heidsieck caves in Reims. I was thrilled to learn this as it gives further justification to my quest and desire for the Marie Antoinette coupe-style glasses. (In case anyone wants to send a gift for Snack's 2nd birthday in August.)

liquidsnack: sake specific

Liquidsnack is also an interactive category. You send an email ([email protected]) asking "which sparkling sake did you drink at the Mandarin Oriental?" And I answer -

Harushika "Tokimeki" Sparkling Sake, Happo Junmai. Described as, "light and fresh with notes of lemon, apples and nashi pear." $10 glass/$34 bottle.

Kampai!

liquidsnack: holiday sparkler

A flute of something bubbly is almost a mandatory holiday accessory, whether it's Champagne, cava, prosecco or the like. My personal favorite of the old French houses is Krug , which is undeniably exquisite and admittedly price-prohibitive for regular consumption. My latest sparkling crush is for sparkling sake, which I discovered last year at a press dinner at Asiate. It's unfiltered and thus a cloudy white, has very small velvety bubbles and can be crisp and dry or fruity and sweet. Like all things Japanese, it has recently gained in popularity and accessibility. I've noticed it on menus and retail shelves around town. Most sake comes in a screw-top bottle, which means you can store it quite well in the refrigerator.  It should not, however, be confused with Hot Sake, which, while quite tasty, is not a libation.

liquidsnack: what I’m drinking now

Now that Labor Day has come and gone, it’s time to put away your white shoes and rosé and move into black ankle boots and Lambrusco. If you’re not familiar with this slightly effervescent red wine from Emilia-Romagna, I suggest you make its acquaintance. It has much in common with rosé, in that they’re both inexpensive table wines that are often shunned by oenophiles because they’re made to drink now. Lambrusco can be dry or sweet, and should be served slightly chilled. Its most natural pairing is with charcuterie and cheese, but it mixes and matches quite well with lots of other dishes.

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I will not name specific brands, but will instead share my rosé strategy, which served me well this summer. Just start working through all the offerings at your local wine shop and go back to the ones you like. It’s so inexpensive that you could even do two bottles per meal. Likewise on restaurants wine lists. Most will only have one or two Lambrusco offerings at the most. Just order it. You’ll be rewarded with a new discovery and most likely it will be one of the cheapest bottles on the list.

liquidsnack: naked chardonnay

Winemaker Eric Miller puts his grapes on the vine to promote the 2005 Naked Chardonnay from his Chaddsford Winery (in Pennsylvania). I don’t know how it tastes (or if I want to know, even at $14.99) but I give him 90 out of 100 points (isn't that how they score wine?) for the publicity effort. 

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(Photo Credit Steve Legato)

liquidsnack: free coffee psa

For all you snackers across the country planning to caffeinate tomorrow - here’s a public service announcement. Tomorrow is free coffee day at Starbucks. Details as cut-n-pasted from the press release.

liquidsnack: drinks with david

       

A cocktail crafted by Esquire drinks-guru David Wondrich at 5 Ninth(NYC) is cool.

Cocktails with David Wondrich at 5 Ninth is white hot.

Price: Negotiable. Call 212.929.9460 to have David mixmaster your party.