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October 23, 2006



If there's been one common trait I've found in most of the "new" (Adrià has recently rejected "molecular gastronomy" as a label) food from European avant-gardists, it's been sugar in the savory courses--and that's sugar, not fruit--as in egg yolk encased in crisp caramel. Several years ago at my one meal at Heston Blumenthal's The Fat Duck, sweetness increased with each course. A main course of sweetbreads was coated with a sweet batter that could have easily been reserved for a spicy dessert. In fact, the desserts took a step back in terms of sweetness. One problem that I've not resolved, is the choice of wine with this kind of food. That's gist for another topic

mme snack

The wine question is a good one Bux. Perhaps we can get Sam to give us his two cents.

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