Fall previews. The media has their lists out now of all the new restaurants opening this fall. But what are Gotham’s chefs excited about? What interests a chef is very different from what catches the eye of the press. Chefs get their information from the back channels of kitchen gossip, not from the pr machine.
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For the past two weeks I’ve been asking chefs around town – what are you looking forward to this fall? Where do you want to eat? And, for the young Turks – where do you want to work? I was surprised to discover that the industry consensus was almost unanimous, whether it was coming from a four-star uber toque or the mid-town hotel line cook.
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After the jump: big-box is boring, smaller is better and falling off the edge.
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Big-box is boring.
While all the expensively-designed global brand expansions have the consumer press clamoring, the industry gives them a big yawn. Most are aware of all the starry-starry openings, but are not running to submit resumes or putting in a call for reservations. The exception to the ennui is L'Atelier de Robuchon. As one chef said “even if it’s in a hotel and a chain – he’s still a genius.”
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Smaller is better.
Chefs are eating at tiny restaurants like Degustation, neighborhood joints, street food, ethnic in the boroughs, Tasting Room, Room 4 Dessert for after work and Momofuko/Ssäm Bar. Smaller spots are getting a rush of resumes as well from cooks who’ve done the big-time (there’s always a long list of cooks waiting to get on to the line in the top restaurants), with eyes on the prize of their own place. Given the increasingly critical media and the over-the-top expense of restaurant real estate, a small restaurant could actually be a reality someday. Likewise most are looking forward to the openings of Sam Mason’s new place (no name yet for the debut from former WD-50 pastry chef, but slated to open in November)and Bar Falai (the third in Iacopo Falai's bread empire, slated to open in December).
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Falling off the edge.
Everyone talks about NYC as the food capital of the world, but many a chef lamented the lack of unifying energy, focus and innovation in our town. As one chef observed, “Cooking these days, like music these days, is very fragmented.” Prior to its close, Gilt was a top draw for young chefs looking to learn something new. New toque in town Daniel Humm at 11 Madison Park has popped on to the radar and WD-50 remains a beacon. Aliena in Chicago and WD-50 were the two most noted for invention, though a couple decried molecular gastronomy as trendy bunk. Though this quote came from one chef, the sentiment could be attributed to many. “I only wish New York was not so complacent, and that we still had our old edge.”
This is amazing info and access. who cares what the press feeds us, i love to snack on this type of reccomendation. As a non-foodie i trust it.
Posted by: Joanna Pena-Bickley | September 06, 2006 at 02:43 PM
I'm not surprised that chefs are interested in checking out the smaller personal operations. For one thing, these seem to be what chefs are opening. The big places seem to be opened by entrepreneurs and operators. I'll admit it does alter the concept of destination restaurant a bit, but maybe that's part of the allure as well. It's encouraging to hear that chef's interests are in line with my interests.
It's also not particularly surprising that Robuchon's Atelier is the exception. Again, that makes sense to me.
Posted by: Bux | September 06, 2006 at 07:23 PM