Madame et messieurs, put your pencils down. Sources say the Michelin inspection for NYC has officially ended and the 2006 guide has gone to press (sources were right the last time, n’est-ce pas?).The final step for les inspecteurs is an official visit to the eatery under consideration, so if you haven’t seen an inspector, you’re not in the book.
What is in the book? A flashy new format including photos and recipes contributed by the lucky 500 (number of listings), though it’s unclear how they’ll be added. Just for the stars? Or democratically distributed amongst the boroughs and categories? The Michelin man’s using it as a prototype for the next generation. If it works here, the European books may get a Big Apple face-lift. Proof positive that Michelin is in fact judging
I suggest that the proof is in the fish, and further, that the Michelin perspective will be illustrated in a single review: Masa. It’s the epitome of 3 stars. Only 26 seats, exemplary service, and the chef personally prepares your meal – every night. It’s the most expensive restaurant in the country, winning every top dining award and accolade from 4 stars in the Times to 5 stars Mobil (a car doesn’t run on tires alone). It’s also sushi, albeit the ultimate omakase served with finger bowls and all you can crumple hot towels. Up until Michelin’s stateside invasion, the highest rating a Japanese restaurant has ever earned is 1 star.
Will Masa break sushi out of the 1-star ghetto? Will Wylie Dufrense become the next Heston Blumenthal? It’s too soon to tell if this will be the definitive guide, but it’ll surely be the best dressed (providing your idea of high fashion is genuine Moroccan goatskin leather.) To commemorate their first American guide, Michelin has commission a limited-edition cover from Dunhill. Priced at $200, only 75 will be on sale in November at Dunhill on Fifth Avenue, NYC (212.753.9292). I hope les etoiles aren’t so scarce.
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